Contents
Basics of Frozen Desserts
Ice Cream–Making Equipment
Ice Cream Ingredients
How to Make an Ice Cream Base
How to Churn Your Ice Cream Base
How to Store and Serve Ice Cream
Ice Cream Troubleshooting Tips
Ice Cream and Frozen Dessert Recipes
Ice Cream Recipes
Gelato Recipes
Sorbet and Sherbet Recipes
Frozen Yogurt Recipes
Granita Recipes
Ice Cream Drink Recipes
Ice Cream Ingredients
Before you set out making ice cream or another frozen dessert, familiarize yourself with common ingredients.
Dairy Products
The natural fats found in various dairy products contribute to the creaminess, taste, texture, and body of ice cream, gelato, sherbet, and frozen yogurt. Once you
understand the differences among various dairy products, you’ll be able to combine and swap them in recipes to
create the specific qualities you want in your ice cream.
- Milk: Whole milk is typically used in combination with cream to achieve a balance between body and creaminess in frozen desserts (except gelato, which is usually made entirely with whole milk). On its own, whole milk produces a dense frozen dessert because of its relatively low fat content. Low-fat milk and skim milk are not recommended for use in frozen desserts, as they yield a grainy and icy final product.
- Cream: Cream is sold in many different varieties, which vary slightly in fat content. Light cream, medium cream, heavy cream, and whipping cream can all be used in frozen desserts, but make sure to use the type indicated in your recipe before substituting other forms of cream. (Avoid ultrapasteurized cream, as it’s subjected to such a high temperature during production that much of its flavor is destroyed.) Desserts made exclusively with cream turn out very creamy and often even take on an overwhelmingly buttery richness—to find a balance between milk and cream that matches your tastes, try a recipe that calls for a combination of whole milk and cream and then adjust the proportions when you revisit the recipe.
- Half-and-half: As its name suggests, half-and-half is a mixture of whole milk and cream, so it has a fat content in between those two products. Though half-and-half is convenient, you can also create your own mixture with superior milk and cream.
- Yogurt: Use only whole milk yogurt or Greek yogurt in frozen yogurt recipes unless they indicate otherwise. For extra-creamy frozen yogurt, try straining your yogurt overnight in a strainer lined with cheesecloth placed over a bowl and stored in your refrigerator.
- Sour cream: When used together with whole milk or cream, sour cream can lend frozen desserts a refreshing tanginess. Regular and low-fat sour cream yield good results, but nonfat sour cream isn’t recommended because it imparts a grainy and icy texture. Crème fraîche can be substituted for sour cream, but keep in mind that it has a higher fat content.
Sweeteners
Sugar content is critical in all frozen desserts, as it prevents liquids from freezing into one solid mass. Sweeteners promote the growth of tiny ice crystals, which is what gives ice cream, sorbet, and other frozen desserts their distinctively smooth texture.
Most frozen dessert recipes call for granulated white sugar, some require powdered sugar, honey, brown sugar, or fructose. Always use the type of sweetener indicated in your recipe, as different sweeteners behave differently when frozen. And measure carefully: too much sweetener will prevent your base from freezing.
Honey
Honey imparts a deep sweetness and smooth texture to frozen desserts, but it should be used in smaller quantities because of its concentrated flavor. It’s often used in combination with granulated sugar, which is better at promoting the formation of ice crystals during churning. If you’re using a recipe that calls for honey and no sugar, be sure to monitor the custard carefully, as it will cook faster than one made with sugar.
Fruit Preserves
Fruit preserves such as jams and marmalades can be substituted for sugar in equal amounts. Pectin, a natural substance in fruit that helps thicken all forms of preserves, also helps to make frozen desserts smoother and slows down the rate at which they melt at room temperature. If you’re using preserves, take care not to heat your base above 175°F, or the pectin will begin to break down.
Eggs
Custard ice cream bases rely on egg yolks. Always use the same size eggs as indicated in your recipe—most recipes call for yolks of large eggs. If you can’t find large-size eggs, measure your egg yolks by weight, not number—one large egg yolk weighs about 3/4 oz. Also be aware that egg yolks are easiest to separate from their whites when they are thoroughly chilled. You can reserve any unused whites and keep them refrigerated or frozen for later use.
All egg products should be cooked to at least 160°F to ensure that they’re safe for consumption. This shouldn’t be an issue when you make ice cream, since most custard-based ice cream recipes call for cooking the custard to 175°F. Use your instant-read thermometer to make sure your custard base reaches the proper temperature—dip the thermometer’s probe tip into the center of your saucepan, making sure that it doesn’t touch the bottom of the pan.
Salt
In small quantities, salt can enhance the flavor of practically any food without contributing too much salty taste. It’s indispensable to frozen desserts—just a pinch of salt heightens the flavor of virtually any ice cream, gelato, sorbet, sherbet, granita, or frozen yogurt. Both table salt and kosher salt are suitable for frozen desserts.
Flavorings
You can add countless different ingredients to flavor ice cream and other frozen deserts.
Chocolate
There are many types of chocolate products, but not all of them are interchangeable or suitable for frozen desserts.
- Bittersweet chocolate: Also called semisweet chocolate, bittersweet chocolate (by law) must contain at least 35% cocoa solids. Its taste varies greatly from brand to brand and is usually sold in bar form, which is better for melting than chocolate chips are. If your recipe calls for chopped chocolate, use a serrated knife to saw corners off a chocolate bar. Any leftover chocolate can be stored in a cool, dark place where it will keep for several years. Before using bittersweet chocolate in a recipe, sample as many products as you can to find one that strikes the right balance between bitter and sweet.
- Milk chocolate: Made from sweetened dry milk to give it a mellower taste, milk chocolate must contain at least 12% milk and 10% cocoa solids, though some expensive brands have as much as 30% cocoa solids. As with bittersweet chocolate, bars are better for melting than chips. Seek out a brand you enjoy, avoiding common, mass-produced candy bars in favor of products with more cocoa solids. You can store milk chocolate in a cool, dark place for up to a year.
- White chocolate: White chocolate is a mixture of sugar, cocoa butter, milk solids, lecithin, and butter— it contains no cocoa solids. Many white chocolate products are made with inferior ingredients, such as hydrogenated fats, and aren’t derived at all from cocoa. So you should look for brands made from pure cocoa butter—it’s worth paying extra for a premium product.
- Unsweetened chocolate: Also called bitter chocolate or baking chocolate, unsweetened chocolate has no added sugar at all and contains between 50% and 58% cocoa solids. Because of its very bitter taste, it is used only in cooking and never eaten on its own.
- Chocolate chips: Chips come in bittersweet, milk, and white chocolate varieties, but unlike their bar equivalents, they contain less cocoa butter so that they can be molded into their familiar shape. As as result, they don’t melt as well as bar chocolate, though they’re convenient as a mix-in ingredient for ice creams.
- Cocoa powder: Made from dried and ground cocoa solids, cocoa powder is not the same thing as powdered chocolate or dried chocolate drink mixes—these products cannot be used interchangeably. Unless instructed otherwise, always use unsweetened cocoa powder. Some products are labeled as Dutch-processed, which means that they’ve been alkalized to reduce their acidity so that they react with leavening agents in specific ways during baking. Some cooks believe that Dutch-process cocoa powder has a deeper color and richer flavor than nonalkalized cocoa powder.
- Cocoa nibs: Bits of roasted cocoa beans, cocoa nibs are a crunchy form of pure, unsweetened chocolate flavor and can be used as a mix-in ingredient.
Vanilla
Vanilla is perhaps the most popular flavor for frozen desserts. Its flavor comes from the tiny black seeds found in the center of the fruit pod of certain orchid flowers. These pods, frequently called vanilla beans, are available in most supermarkets. Though these pods are a bit pricey, at $2–4 each, their flavor is unmatched—consider trying them at least once before you resort to vanilla extracts. Choose pods that appear full and moist. Stored in the refrigerator and wrapped tightly in plastic or placed in a glass jar, vanilla pods will keep for about six months.
You can substitute vanilla extract for vanilla beans, but keep in mind that you get exactly what you pay for when it comes to extracts. Products labeled “imitation” or “artificial” contain no real vanilla and are inferior to pure vanilla extract. The best extracts come from Mexico, Madagascar, and Tahiti.
How to Use Vanilla Pods
Most of the flavor from vanilla beans comes from the seeds inside. To use vanilla in frozen desserts, follow these steps:
- Use a paring knife to split each pod lengthwise and then open it with your fingers to reveal the seeds.
- While holding the end of the pod with one hand, drag the edge of a tablespoon or the blade of your knife up the interior of the pod to scrape out all the seeds.
- Drop the seeds and the pod into your base (you’ll need to remove the pod before churning).
Other Flavors
Other ingredients used to flavor frozen desserts include:
- Extracts and oils: Natural extracts and oils made from peppermint, almond, and orange contribute bold flavors to frozen desserts even when used in small quantities. Natural and pure extracts are so superior to their artificial counterparts—often labeled as “imitation” or “flavoring”—that you should consider spending the extra money for them whenever possible. Store these extracts and oils properly, away from light and heat in tightly sealed containers, and they will last up to a year. They are very delicate and should be added to your base only after you’ve turned off the stove and begun to cool it.
- Fruit: Use fresh fruits when they are in season and at their peak of freshness. Read your recipes carefully, as some call for fruit by weight or volume, whereas others call for whole fruit by quantity. If you’ll be using frozen fruit, measure it before letting it thaw, as frozen fruit shrinks in size as it warms to room temperature.
- Nuts: Fresh or toasted nuts lend depth of flavor and crunchiness to frozen desserts. Proper storage is critical for nuts, as their high fat content makes them susceptible to spoilage. Always buy nuts in small quantities and store them sealed tightly in a cool, dark place. Nuts can also be frozen in tightly sealed containers or freezer bags. When using nuts in a recipe, consider toasting them briefly beforehand, since the heating process brings out their natural oils and heightens their flavors. Place them on a sheet pan, toast them for 6–8 minutes in an oven heated to 375°F, and cool them thoroughly before use. Most nuts are used as a mix-in ingredient in frozen desserts. (For more on mix-ins see How to Churn Your Ice Cream Base.)
- Alcohol: When used in small quantities, alcohol contributes flavor to frozen desserts. Because alcohol’s freezing point is below that of water, it keeps your ice cream from getting too hard. As a general rule, don’t exceed three tablespoons of 80-proof alcohol per quart of liquid, as large quantities of alcohol will interfere with your custard or sorbet base’s ability to freeze. You don’t need to buy the most expensive alcohol, but you should consider using a brand you would enjoy drinking on its own.
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