Contents
Getting Started
- Increases in the Center-Increase Triangles
- Squaring Off the Sides of Triangles
- Squaring Off the Top of the Center-Increase Triangle
- Leaving Unworked Stitches in the Center-Increase Triangle
- Recommended Tools
- Skill Level
- You Will Need
- Gauge
- Pattern Stitches
- Materials Used in the Featured Sweater
- Sizes
- Finished Garment Measurements
Instructions
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- Step-by-step instructions
- A helpful sizing schematic
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Getting Started
In this project, you’ll experience the wonders that simple center-increase triangles can do for a garment. Also, since multidirectional knitting is never boring, you’re sure to have fun with this pattern. Knit it with or without sleeves.
Increases in the Center-Increase Triangles
These take place at the beginning and center of each row. You can tell which stitch requires the increase by tracking the pair of stitches from the previous row that represent the very centermost point of your row; they’re closely joined because that was the position of increase in the previous row, and both loops emerged from one stitch. You can feel that by tugging on them, and if you flip your work over, you’ll notice that one of the stitches is actually a half-stitch, in that it doesn’t have any “roots” in other stitches, but hangs suspended since it was just added. This is the stitch where you’ll always work the center increase.
Squaring Off the Sides of Triangles
This is done in a way that balances the number of increases to the decreases in each row, so the stitch count remains the same on each row.
Squaring Off the Top of the Center-Increase Triangle
This is generally done in two parts. The row is divided in half and each half is worked separately. Decrease on both ends of each half, until there are 2 or 3 stitches left. Bind off these remaining stitches. Cut yarn. Repeat on the other side, making sure to attach yarn and start knitting at the centermost point.
Leaving Unworked Stitches in the Center-Increase Triangle
This creates a V neckline. This technique is used when the right and left sides of pullovers are worked separately. Stitches are left behind in order to form the “V” neckline, which is later knitted in the opposite direction connecting the 2 sides (see photo).
Recommended Tools
Good needles can make all the difference in your knitting experience. For silk, cashmere, and mohair, rosewood needles work especially well. Rosewood is softer than bamboo, smooth, and extremely lightweight. These needles have become popular and are available through most yarn shops and online retailers. You’ll find that your hands don’t get tired as easily with these needles, and the yarn stays put without slipping. Because most lace patterns require yarn-over stitches, and because this type of stitch tends to get hung up on the joints of circular needles, be very careful about the circular needles that you select. Make sure to find circular needles that have smooth joins and plastic cords (see photo) that do not fight you.
Skill Level
- Intermediate
You Will Need
- Approximately 489 (652, 815, 978, 1141)yd/447 (597, 746, 894, 1044)m of silk lightweight yarn for sleeveless version as shown (to add optional sleeves, for which directions are given, purchase an additional 163yd/149m of same yarn).
- Circular needles, 4mm (size 6 U.S.) or size to obtain gauge, 24"/61cm long
- Pair of stitch holders
- Stitch marker
- Tapestry needle for finishing
Gauge
- 20 sts and 44 rows (22 ridges) = 4" in Garter Stitch
- Always take time to check your gauge.
Pattern Stitches
Garter Stitch
- Knit every row.
Lace for Neckline
- 3-St Dec—Worked over 3 sts. SSP, transfer remaining st back to left needle, pass second st on left needle over this new st (3 sts decreased to 1 st).
- 3-St Inc—Worked on 1 st remaining from decreases. *K1 and leave original st on needle, transfer new st back to left needle, knit transferred st again (forming a new st on right needle); drop transferred st from left needle and keep original st on left needle. Working into original st again, repeat from * twice more (3 sts now on right needle); drop original st from left needle.
- 4-St Dec—Worked over 4 sts. SSP, *sl 1, psso; transfer remaining st back to left needle, pass second st on left needle over this new st (4 sts decreased to 1 st).
- 4-St Inc—Worked in 1 st remaining from decreases. *K1 and leave original st on left needle, transfer new st back to left needle, knit the transferred st again (forming a new st on right needle); drop transferred st from left needle and keep original st on left needle. Working into original st again, repeat from * 3 times more (4 sts now on right needle); drop original st from left needle.
- 5-St Dec—Worked over 5 sts. SSP, then sl 1, psso, transfer st back to left needle, pass second st on left needle over first st, then pass following st on left needle over first; (5 sts decreased to 1 st ready for increase).
- 5-St Inc—Worked in 1 st remaining from decreases. *K1 and leave original st on left needle, transfer new st back to left needle, k the transferred new st again dropping the transferred st from the left needle (forming a new st on right needle); and keep the original st in place on the left needle. Working into the original st again, repeat from * 4 times more. There are now 5 sts on the right needle. Drop the original st from the left needle.
Materials Used in the Featured Sweater
- 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) skeins for sleeveless version, or 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) skeins for sleeved version, of Artyarn’s Regal Silk, 100% silk lightweight yarn, 1.8oz/50g = 163yd/149m per skein, in color #218, rust red
Sizes
- Small (Medium, Large, X-Large, XX-Large)
Finished Garment Measurements
- Bust, about 35 (39, 43, 47, 51)"/89 (99, 109,119.5, 129.5)cm
- Length to shoulder, 20 (22, 24, 26, 28)"/51 (56, 61, 66, 71)cm
| 2007 Iris Schreier | Acknowledgments & Disclaimer |
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