Instructions

Piecing Together the Quilted Layers

1. Begin with the center section to piece the log cabin block for the front and back of the handbag, following the alphabetical sequence indicated in figure 1.
    
   
2. Trim the handbag front and back so each measures 10" x 9" (25.4 x 22.9 cm).
3. Stack the quilt layers for the handbag, making a stack for the front and a stack for the back. Use the handbag front and the handbag back for the quilt tops, and muslin as backing for each.
4. Adjust the sewing machine for straight-stitch quilting. Thread the needle with either brown or variegated quilting thread. Fill the bobbin with sewing thread. Stitch in the ditch of the pieced seams, and then stitch wavy or large zigzag rows in some of the open areas.
5. Press the bias-cut strip in half with wrong sides together so the long edges meet. Press the fold. Open out the strip so it’s flat. Fold each raw edge to meet at the center crease. Press the folds. Fold the strip in half so the pressed folds meet. Press as you shape the strip into a curve to form the button loop. Stitch each long side through all layers. In the same way, fold and stitch the shoulder strap, but do not shape it into a curve.

Making the Front Flap

6. Pin the button loop to one purple section to make the front flap (figure 2). Adjust the size of the loop for the button you have selected, allowing for a 1⁄2" (1.3 cm) seam. Machine-baste the loop to the flap.
    
   
7. Stack the front and back flaps with right sides together. Add the batting on top of the stack. Stitch the sides and loop-edge of the flap, using a 1⁄2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance and leaving the top edge of the flap open. Trim across the corners to reduce bulk. Turn the flap right side out.
8. Adjust the sewing machine for straight-stitch quilting. Thread the needle with variegated quilting thread. Topstitch 1⁄2" (1.3 cm) from the seamed edges of the flap, and then stitch large zigzags across the flap.

Beading the Designs

9. Attach the beads using either the hand-sewing or beading needle, depending upon the size of the bead hole. Thread the needle with beading thread. Identify the beading techniques by referring to figure 3. To begin, use a seed stitch to sew about eight topaz seed beads in the center of the flower motif on the front of the handbag; fill in the flower center with about 30 pewter seed beads. With the same stitch, sew about 12 bugle beads among the flower petals. Sew some scattered turquoise and yellow/lime seed beads on and around the flower.
    
   
10. Sew a row of four sets of stacked beads to the left of the center flower. For each stack, sew a topaz seed bead on top of a size 8/0 purple seed bead.
11. Sew a row of eight bull’s eyes below the center flower motif. For each bull’s eye, sew a mustard marble seed bead in the center. Use a backstitch to sew a row of olive seed beads around the center. Thread the needle back through the first two beads to close the circle snugly (figure 4). Add couching stitches as needed to make the row of beads lie snugly around the center bead.
     
    
12. Sew a beaded rope on the seam to the left of the stacked beads. Bring the thread out at one end of the seam.
13. Pick up seven olive seed beads on the thread. Insert the needle at the seam, and pull the thread taut so the beads lay straight and snug.
14. Bring the thread out between the third and fourth beads in the row (see figure 5).
     
    
15. Pick up seven blackberry seed beads on the thread, and pull the thread taut so the blackberry beads begin to lie next to the olive beads, nudging the olive beads slightly to one side.
16. Insert the needle at the last blackberry bead and bring the thread out between the third and fourth blackberry beads (figure 6). In the same way, continue sewing alternating bead colors to form the rope.
     
    
17. For the final segment, you may have to use more or fewer beads to fill in the space.
18. Sew a picot edging using olive and blackberry seed beads along the seams that form the corner of the brown strip (figure 7). Make a series of 11 picots.
     
    

Adding the Dangles

19. Sew a series of five dangles on the seam between the picot edging and the rope. For each dangle, string six size 11/0 purple seed beads, four olive seed beads, one teardrop bead, and four olive seed beads.
20. Feed the needle back through the purple beads (figure 8), and insert the needle through the handbag at the starting point. Pull the thread taut enough to bring the beads close together, but with enough slack so the dangle swings freely. Secure each dangle on the back with a knot.
     
    

Stitching & Beading the Vine Design

21. Sew a vine above the picot edging using orange seed beads for the branches and novelty beads with turquoise beads for the flowers. Use a backstitch about every three to five beads in each free-form vine segment. To sew each flower, stack a turquoise bead on a novelty bead.
22. Sew a beaded fan next to the vine. Use a bugle bead with a purple seed bead at one end and a blackberry seed bead at the other end to make each spoke. For the center of the fan, begin with a single size 8/0 purple seed bead in the center, then use a couching stitch to sew a strand of olive seed beads in a semi-circular row. In the same way, sew a second row of olive beads and then a row of turquoise beads.

Assembling the Bag & Adding the Lining

23. Cut a 1" (2.5 cm) square from each bottom corner of the handbag front and back. With right sides together and using a 1⁄2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance, sew the front to the back along the sides and bottom (figure 9). Press the seams open. In the same way, stitch the two lining sections together, but leave an opening in the bottom seam.
     
    
24. Create the gusset at the bottom of the bag and lining by aligning the side and bottom seams at each corner. Stitch across each corner using a 1⁄2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance (figure 10). Turn the handbag, but not the lining, right side out.
25. Pin the shoulder strap to the handbag at each side seam (see figure 11). Machine-baste the ends of the strap to the handbag.
     
    
26. Pin the flap to the back of the handbag (figure 12). Machine-baste the flap to the handbag, using a 1⁄2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance.
     
    
27. Insert the handbag into the lining so the right sides are together. Align the lining and handbag so the side seams match. Sew a 1⁄2" (1.3 cm) seam around the top of the handbag. Turn the handbag right side out by pulling it through the opening in the lining’s bottom seam. Close the opening with small hand stitches. Tack the corners of the lining to the corners of the bag by hand. Topstitch the seam around the top of the handbag.
28. Sew the button with the 1⁄2" (1.3 cm) bead on top to the handbag front below the button loop.

Making the Fringe

29. Sew a beaded fringe on the flap on each side of the button loop. Divide each space into eight equal parts and mark with chalk. Thread the beading needle with beading thread, and knot the end.
30. Beginning at one side seam of the flap, insert the needle, pulling the thread until the knot pops through the seam. Bring the thread out at the edge of the flap; take one tiny stitch from back to front to secure the thread.
31. For each segment of the fringe, pick up the following seed beads: one dark purple, one blue metallic, six purple, one mustard swirl, and one purple. Pass the needle over this last purple bead, through the mustard swirl bead and the next dark purple bead to pick up five dark purple, one blue, and one dark purple bead (figure 13).
     
    
32. At the edge of the flap, insert the needle from the back through all layers of fabric to the front side of the flap. Take an additional small security stitch by bringing the needle and thread from the back to the front a few fabric threads’ distance away.
33. To begin the next fringe segment, insert the needle back through the dark purple and blue metallic beads (figure 14) before repeating the pattern beginning with six purple beads.
     
    
34. At the end of the fringe, take an additional small stitch. Make a knot in the thread, and pull the thread until the knot pops to the inside of the flap.

Variation Idea